Types of Bathroom Exhaust Fans and Their Uses?

Do you feel irritated about the stale and impure air spreading out from your bathroom? Probably, you need to fix a bathroom ventilation fan or replace your outdated one. As the foul air in your home can cause serious health problems and lead to infections, getting an efficient bathroom ventilator will definitely be a wise choice.

Different types of bathroom ventilation fans are available to suit different bathroom settings. Ceiling mounted bathroom exhaust fans can be fixed on the ceiling and the impure air is expelled through the roof. When this type of fan is connected to a ducting, the air is passed out through an external vent.

The inline exhaust fan can be mounted in between ducting. These types of fans are usually fixed where mounting is not possible on the ceiling. Choose bathroom exhaust fans that are efficient and noiseless. Wall mounted fans are quite simple to install as they don't require any duct work. As they are directly mounted on the wall, the stale air can be removed faster from the bathroom. Finally, Bathroom Exhaust Fans that come with combination units. In other words, these fans come with additional features such as fan-light and heat-fan-light combinations.

Now, find out the right type of bathroom ventilator to fit your bathroom. You can also check out the article on Bathroom Ventilation Guide for tips on choosing ventilators for your bathroom.

Home Improvement Superstore offers a variety of quality Bathroom Ventilation Fans at great prices. This store has all types of bathroom ventilators that also come with combination units. Some of the bathroom ventilation fans available at this e-store include 110CFM Bath Fan, 110CFM Sone Fan/Light, 180CFM Vert Bath Fan, and 70CFM Bath Fan/Light. Visit this online home appliances store now to get an exhaust fan to have a clean and foul smell-free bathroom!

Plastic Ceiling Exhaust Fan

Whole House Ventilation Fans Help You Stay Cool and Save Money?

It is ventilation fans nearly impossible to turn on the news (or step outside) without being reminded about the heat wave being experienced throughout the US. Many air conditioners are going into overdrive to keep the heat from interfering with everyday life. Typically, during this time of the year, energy costs rise. The extensive use of the AC contributes significantly to that increase since it is the largest consumer of electricity is many homes. However, installing a whole house fan will help give both the AC and your pockets a break from this dreadful heat by reducing your energy bills by up to 50%.

How does this fan work?

A whole house fan operates to drop home temperatures naturally. It is installed in the attic, and cools the building fairly quickly, pulling the cooler air indoors through open windows while exhausting hotter air outside through the attic and the roof. This cools not only the lived-in portion of the house, but provides attic ventilation as well.

The exact amount of air that is exchanged through whole house ventilation fans depends on many factors. These factors include climate, floor plan of the home, and how dependent you will be on the fan. On average, however, these fans provide 30-60 air changes every hour.

When to use the fan

There are a few requirements to keep in mind concerning the use of a whole house fan instead of an air conditioner. The best time to operate this fan is:

When the temperature outdoors is less than 82 degrees (typically in the evening and at night)
Relative humidity level is lower than 75 percent
Temperature outside is lower than the temperature inside
What kind of savings does the fan provide?

In the average home, cooling accounts for approximately 12% of energy costs. Cooling the home naturally as opposed to depending upon the air conditioner greatly brings down both residential energy consumption and energy bills at home. Exact amount of savings depends largely on climate; the more temperate the climate, the more energy and money that can be saved.

Operating whole house ventilation fans using the guidelines above can reduce up to half of home energy use and costs. This reduction in energy use is positive for pockets and the environment. Limiting the amount of energy a home uses also reduces that home's carbon footprint and negative environmental impact.

Ultra-thin window mounted ventilation fan

Silo Waterproofing

Silos are storage structures of agricultural products such as grain and wheat. It is necessary that silos are waterproof because grain and wheat would be useless if they become wet in storage due to rains or storms. It is therefore important that silo waterproofing must be done in all existing silos.

The silo waterproofing process for grain storage is divided into two parts. The first part is the structural upgrade while the second is the actual waterproofing process.

Before a silo can be made waterproof, the structure itself should be assessed first. Most grain silos are not equipped with the mechanism to control the atmospheric conditions inside the storage, so modifications will be done before the actual silo waterproofing process begins. The structural upgrade begins with the repair of existing damages within the structure, such as the covering of holes and other openings. The silos will also be strengthened. Then, silo features such as doors, exhaust fans, conveyor belts and ventilators will be altered to prevent leakage from those areas. Structural upgrade also includes the following: fitting of internal pressure controls; the installation or modification of a fumigation system; the upgrade and improvement of lighting, safety and maintenance devices. It is during the assessment of the silo that the extent of the waterproofing work will be determined.

The process of silo waterproofing begins with the filling out of large gaps and voids, specially the parts between the roof and walls. The next part is the application of a membrane seal over smaller holes and joints. Afterward, there will be the sealing of wall and floor surfaces. Then, there will be an application of the heat reflective coating on exterior surfaces. The last procedure of silo waterproofing is the sealing of the doors and other openings that are essential with loading and maintenance operations.

Full ABS material copper motor ventilation fan

In Wall Reef Aquarium

How would you design an in-wall reef aquarium so that a chiller would not be needed? It requires a bit of improvisation, but I accomplished this for a new client.

In July 2011, I received a phone call from a lady who needed me to move the contents of her 90-gallon, in-wall reef aquarium to a free-standing, 120-gallon aquarium in her new home. The gentleman who bought her old house requested an estimate for bringing the 90-gallon back into commission as a reef aquarium. The tank wasn't big, so I wanted to make sure that I made up for this by equipping it with great filtration and very bright lighting, all without causing too much heat to build up inside the cabinetry.

In Wall Reef Aquarium

In many cases, a chiller would be used to make certain the water temperature does not exceed 80° to 82°F, but not only was there zero space to add a chiller, it is also a huge mistake to put a chiller in a tight, enclosed, poorly ventilated space. A chiller dumps the heat that it removes to cool the water down, just like a window air conditioner, so it will seriously heat up the air in the cabinet. Also, the cooler the air it's allowed to draw in, the more efficiently it will cool the water.

Lighting

Right away I knew I was going to use LED lighting on this system. LEDs have come a long way since even a couple of years ago, and using T5 fluorescents or metal halides wouldn't have worked because too much heat would have been created inside the cabinetry. LEDs do produce some heat, but much less than either of the aforementioned light sources. When left on for an hour, a 150-watt metal halide bulb would burn your skin if touched, T5 fluorescents would be uncomfortably hot, and LEDs would only be warm to the touch.

There was already a bathroom exhaust fan installed in the ceiling inside of the cabinetry, which is great for removing lingering heat and humidity. Remember that the cooler you keep the area around an LED fixture, the longer you can expect to have them around functioning properly. When I called in to order the LED fixtures I was going to use, the manufacturer alerted me that a second-generation version was coming out that was brighter and would actually cost a little less. Unfortunately, it wouldn't be ready to ship for two months, I informed the new client about this and got him to see the virtue of being patient for this lighting system. Since I usually want the system to run for a month or so anyway before adding corals and other livestock, we could afford to wait for the lights.

Filtration

The former homeowner took all the filtration in the move, but that was fine because we had decided to upgrade anyway. For a year prior to setting up this reef system, I had been slowly adding solid carbon dosing to my clients' saltwater fish-only and reef systems to great effect. Solid carbon dosing is a method by which biodegradable plastic-like pellets are fluidized in a media reactor. The material the pellets are made from acts as both food source and colonizing surface for beneficial bacteria that consume nitrate and phosphate on a 1:1 basis.

It is important to place the effluent from the media reactor that you are using to fluidize the bio-pellets close to the intake of a protein skimmer. The bacteria are sloughed off of the surfaces of the pellets as they collide and are easily picked up by the skimmer, thus removing them, along with the nitrate and phosphate they utilized from the system.

Choosing an external main pump in this situation was easy, since it is very well known that submersible pumps transfer much more heat to the aquarium water than do those that are mounted outside of the sump (a sump is a glass or acrylic tank that sits underneath the aquarium and houses all the filtration). I sized the main pump, choosing one that was pressure rated rather than volume rated.

Electric shutter exhaust fan

Heat Guns – More Than Just Safely Removing Paint

Uses Of Heat Guns

Apart from removing paints, heat guns are often used in home and workshops for various other purposes. A few among them are mentioned below:

1. You can buy heat gun online for removing old floor tiles, bumper stickers, decals and several other materials that are fixed with glue.

2. Floor tiles are fragile when cold and can break down when cut to fit into clenched places such as around pipes or molding. Heating the tile with a heat gun makes the process of cutting much easier and more precise.

3. Heat gun is often used to soften the putty around doors and windows. This makes the compound easier to scrape off.

4. To thaw frozen pipes, buy a heat gun, easily available online, as it is much safer than a torch with an open flame. Be careful on soldered joints as the gun can heat the solder if held in place for too long.

How To Use a Heat Gun?

Heat gun is known to remove paint quickly, thereby creating less of a mess than a chemical remover. The gun can work both on latex or oil-base finishes. However, it cannot remove a stain that has soaked into wood.

Install the nozzle before turning the heat gun on. Generally, there are two types of nozzles - one with wide-flare used for most paint-removing jobs, and the round nozzle that works great where heat must be more localized. It is up to you to determine which nozzle is best for a particular job. However, if you need to change nozzles later, cool it for at least five minutes before removing the hot nozzle.

It is necessary to heat only a few square inches at a time and scrape the softened paint off immediately. Prevent the use of nozzle in one place for too long. This will char the paint and wood.

Safety Tips

Once you buy a heat gun online and start using it, you must be aware about the safety precautions you need to follow.

1. You must wear a respirator mask to protect yourself from fumes of the paint.

2. While using this tool, it is necessary to work in a well-ventilated area. That said, opening a window must not be the only option. Either work outdoors or turn on your exhaust fans.

3. Wear a separate set of work clothes and make sure they cover your arms and legs. Be extra cautious by wearing gloves and safety goggles.

4. Heat guns reach high temperature sometimes. Stick to the handle and don't touch the airflow of the tool or the barrel.

5. If you are using an extension cord, make sure it is a heavy duty cord that can carry the load.

6. It is vital to remove paint that has stuck into the nozzle, or else it may create a fire hazard.

Whether you are a professional or have started using this efficient tool from some time now, following the above mentioned safety tips will ensure that neither your work nor productivity gets hampered.

Full PP material window mounted exhaust fan

Exhaust Fan at Your Home

Healthy and comfortable home is not only determined by the quality of its cleaning and lighting but also the air circulation. In order for air distribution went well, the room must be supported by a good ventilation system.

But  sometimes is not enough ventilation, therefore, needed a simple tool known as Exhaust Fan
This tool serves to suck the hot air inside the room and throw it out and at the same time sucking fresh outdoor air into the room. Another function is to regulate the volume of exhaust fan air be circulated in the room. To be healthy every room air circulation needs differ according to function.

Turnover air space needed depends on the function of the measured air change per hour. In the bedroom, for example, 2 / 3 volume of space should be replaced with new air every hour. When the vast room 3 x 4 x 3 = 36 m, meaning it requires a change of room air 24 m2/jam.
the presence of exhaust fan is an artificial attempt to optimize changing the air in the room .
TYPES OF EXHAUST FAN
Based on the exhaust fan assembly divided by 3 is: WALL MOUNT, WINDOW MOUNT, CEILING MOUNT.
WALL MOUNTED, mounted on a wall at the back of the wall must deal directly with outside air to exhaust air.
WINDOW MOUNT,  mounted on a glass window (thickness 3-7 mm). When installed in the room in one big room, make sure there is access out into the air in the huge room.

Auto-shutter bathroom exhaust fan

A Buyer's Guide to the Bathroom Extractor Fan

Bathroom Extractor Fans Buyer's Guide

There is no room in the average household where it is more important to install an extractor fan than the bathroom. Preventing condensation build up, damp, mould and odour, a simple 4 inch bathroom extractor fan will help to keep your bathroom beautiful! The choice of bathroom extractor fan has never been greater, including extractor fans with timers, fans with PIRs, humidistat extractor fans, low voltage extractor fans, low energy fans, slimline fans, and inline fans. This huge choice of extractor fan can be bewildering. The following article is domestic buyer's guide and will help you choose the right bathroom fan.

1. Wiring regulations and Bathroom Zones
2. Extractor Type
3. Air Extraction Rate
4. Operation
5. Noise


1. Wiring regulations, bathroom zones and bathroom extractor fans

Since electric and water can make for a fatal combination, strict regulations were introduced dividing the bathroom into 4 zones: 0, 1, 2, 3. Zone 0 is in the bath. Zone 1 extends vertically 2.25m above the bath. Zone 2 extends in all directions for 0.6m from zone1 and zone 3 extends laterally for 2.4m from zone 2.

It is essential that you install the correct bathroom extractor fan in the correct zone. Bathroom extractor fans come in two voltages; Mains voltage (240v) and SELV or Safety Extra Low Voltage (12v) . Mains voltage bathroom extractor fans may only be used in Zone 3 of the bathroom. In Zones 1 and 2 SELV bathroom fans (12 volt) ONLY must be used, with the transformer being housed in Zone 3. The only exception to this rule is the Airflow QuietAir: A mains voltage bathroom extractor fan that has been specifically designed with an IP45 rating to be used in all 3 zones. Inline fans are another special type of 240v bathroom extractor fan which are housed in the loft space above the bathroom in the middle of two lengths of ducting. Since the motor, impellars and all electrical parts are out of the zonal area, with only the duct and grille in the bathroom ceiling, they too are suitable for use in zone 1 or 2 above the bath or shower.

2. Sizes of bathroom extractor fans

Domestic bathroom extractor fans come in two sizes: 4 inch /100mm and 6 inch / 150mm. In almost every case a 4 inch bathroom extractor fan will suffice. Six inch fans need only be considered in bathrooms greater than three metres squared, or where special circumstances require a more powerful fan,...such as bathrooms with no natural ventilation or particularly cold, north facing bathrooms.


3. Air Extraction Rate

Measured in 'Litres per Second' (L/s) or 'Metres Cubed per Hour' (m3/hr), the air extraction rate of a bathroom extractor fan is one of the most important considerations. The Building Regulations stipulate that a bathroom extractor fan must extract at least 15L/s in a standard domestic bathroom. Most 4 inch bathroom extractor fans far exceed this minimum requirement, and nowadays the standard is 85m3/hr. Any bathroom extractor fan with an extraction rate of 90m3/hr or above may be considered powerful.

4.Operation

Bathroom extractor fans have a range of operational features to suit different applications. The most simple is on/off via the bathroom light switch or integral pullcord. Bathroom fans with integral timers are great in bathrooms where large build ups of steam cause condensation problems, as the over run timer will keep the fan running for a desired period after it has been turned off....particularly useful if the fna is wired into the lighting circuit. Parents may prefer a bathroom fan with a PIR sensor which will operate the extractor fan automatically when anybody enters the bathroom, whilst Landlords like bathroom extractor fans with humidity sensors, which switch on automatically when the relative humidity reaches a set level. This means that tenants are not relied upon to manually operate the bathroom fan.

5. Noise

Typical dB measurements for axial bathroom fans range between 35dB(A) and 45dB(A) with the more powerful centrifugal bathroom fans between 40dB(A) and 55dB(A). Whilst centrifugal extractor fans are louder, it should be remembered that they are housed in the loft space and so are insulated and further away, lessesning the volume somewhat.

Ultra-thin window mounted ventilation fan